Drew was born in Washington, USA, in 1999. His father and mother were both climbers and it was natural for Drew to enter the sport at a very young age. Growing up in an environment split between indoor gyms and natural rock, Drew developed a passion for everything from multi-pitch climbing to competitions. A pivotal moment in his career came with his ascent of ‘Just do It’ (the first 5.14c/8c+ in the USA) when just 15 years of age. Drew is now part of the USA national climbing team and is currently preparing for the 2020 Olympic Games in Tokyo.

Highlights

Brave New World – 9a (5.14d)

Le Cadre Nouvelle Version – 9a (5.14d)

The Assassin – 9a (5.14d)

Sleepwalker – 8C+ (V16)

Box Therapy- 8C+ (V16)

Dicktopia – 8C (V15)

White Noise – 8C (V15)

Echalo – 8C (V15) First ascent

Creature from the Black Lagoon – 8C (V15)

Epidote – 8B+ (V14)

Creme de la Crumb – 8B+ (V14)

Hailstorm – 8B+ (V14) First ascent

La Plancha – 8B+ (V14)

Death Star stand – 8B+ (V14)

The Nest – 8C (V15)

Muscle Car – 8B+ (V14)

Memory is Parallax – 8B+ (V14)

Mind to Motion – 8B+ (V14)

Echale – 8B+ (V14)

Paint It Black – 8C (V15)

Pegasus – 8C (V15) First ascent

Two Ton Skeleton – 8B+ (V14)

Insurgency – 8B+ (V14/15)

Brave New World – 5.14d (9a)

Le Cadre Nouvelle – 9a (5.14d)

The Assassin – 5.14d (9a)

Le Parte du Diable – 8c+ (5.14c). Ascensión en el día.

Hyde – 8c+ (5.14c)

New World Order – 5.14c (8c+)

Just Do It – 5.14c (8c+)

Journeyman – 5.14b (8c)

Still Life – 5.14b (8c)

Le chronique de la Haine Ordinaire – 8c (5.14b)

Thanatopsis – 5.14b (8c)

Direct North – V14 (8B+)

The Swarm – V13 (8B)

Direction – V13 (8B)

Alizée was born in Pessac, France, in 1987, and began climbing at 10 years of age with her father. She did her first 8a when 13 and then decided to concentrate on competions as the fastest method of progressing further. During 15 years Alizée was an integral part of the French climbing team, winning the Youth World Championship and achieving numerous podium finishes and international titles. Between 2005 and 2008 she combined competition climbing with pole vaulting, a sport in which she became the champion of France. But through all this she never lost her love for the rock: in Ceuse (France) she did ‘Dures Limites’ and ‘L’Arcademicien’ — both 8c, and in 2012, while on an extended trip to Siurana in Spain, onsighted ‘Ramadán’ (8b). Further visits to Siurana yielded more impressive additions to her resume, with ‘Chikane’ (8c+), ‘La Reina Mora’ and Estado Crítico’ (both 9a) being particularly notable.

Highlights

Estado Crítico – 9a (5.14d)

La Reina Mora – 9a (5.14d)

Chikane – 8c+ (5.14c)

Coma San Pere – 8c+ (5.14c)

El Rastro – 8c+ (5.14c)

Patinoso – 8c+ (5.14c)

L'académicien – 8c (5.14b)

Dure limites – 8c (5.14b)

Aitzol – 8c (5.14b)

Les Disciples de Pyhrron – 8b+ (5.14a)

The Big R – 8b+ (5.14a)

Ramadan – 8b (5.13d) Onsighted

Green Mamba – 8A+ (V12)

Out of balance – 8A (V11)

The Hatchling – 8A (V11)

Barracuda – 8A (V11)

Wheel of retardation – 8B (V13)

L’Arche – 8B (V13)

Fragiles steps – 8A+/B (V12)

Law and order – 8A+ (V12)

Leopard cave – 8A+ (V12)

Tea with Elmarie – 8A/+ (V11)

Trieste – 8A (V11)

Angie was born in Canberra, Australia, in 2004. At the age of 7 and after falling out of a tree (in which she would frequently scramble around, attempting to reach the most inaccessible branches) Angie’s father decided to take her to the local rock gym where she could explore her obvious passion for climbing in a safer, more controlled environment. Her prodigeous talent was obvious from the outset: she climbed her first 31 (8b) — ‘Swingline’ in Red River Gorge, USA, at only 9 years of age; a year later she did ‘Welcome to Tijuana’ 8c (33) in Rodellar, Spain. Angie currently spends 6 months a year in the Blue Mountains, the heart of Australian climbing, and the other 6 months traveling the world, visiting the major climbing destinations in Spain, France and the USA.

Highlights

Lucifer – 5.14c (8c+)

Espiadimonis – 8c (5.14b)

Welcome to Tijuana – 8c (5.14b)

God's Own Stone – 8b+ (5.14a)

Tijuanita – 8b+ (5.14a)

A la puta rue – 8b+ (5.14a)

Speed baby – 8b+ (5.14a)

Ultra Perm – 8b (5.13d)

La Bombi – 8b (5.13d)

Zona 30 – 8b (5.13d)

Swingline – 8b (5.13d)

Panoptikum – 8A (V11)

Iceberg – 7C+ (V10)

Umbra – 7C+ (V10)

Known for her quick and aggressive climbing style, Kyra has been a force to be reckoned with on the US competition circuit for many years and is increasingly making name for herself on the world stage. In early 2019 she won USA Climbing’s Combined Competition of speed, bouldering and lead, and in December she earned herself a coveted spot at the 2020 Olympics by placing 15th at the Toulouse Olympic qualifying event.

Born and raised in Shoreview, Minnesota, Kyra was introduced to climbing when she was 11 years old at a birthday party at a climbing wall. After this she joined the local team and started climbing regularly. However, less than a year after her introduction to the sport Kyra was diagnosed with severe idiopathic scoliosis and had to undergo significant spinal fusion surgery to correct the 70° “S” curve in her back.

“I got back pain,” says Kyra, “but I figured it wasn’t bad enough for surgery. But then I got the call from my doctor saying I’d need to get surgery and [I] just burst into tears.”

It wasn’t until she faced surgery that Kyra realised how important climbing was to her. The first doctor she went to see told her to forget climbing, that it didn't matter and that she wouldn’t care about it later in life. In response Kyra and her family began to look for an alternative doctor. A different doctor was much more forthcoming, assuring Kyra that she would be back on the podium in no time and that she would be able to climb again four months after surgery if she followed his strict instructions.

And he was right. Only 18 months after her surgery Kyra won Youth Bouldering Nationals. This began a several-year stint of top finishes at national and divisional competitions—for lead, speed and bouldering, we might add—cumulating in her first World Cup event at Vail in 2013, where she placed 29th.

“I didn't know if I really loved climbing enough to pursue it,” says Kyra, “but surgery made me realize how much I loved climbing.”

Kyra climbing Black Shadow (V12) in Rocklands, South Africa.

Kyra's X-ray before her spinal fusion surgery.

Watching Kyra climb you would never guess that a large portion of her spine doesn’t bend as it should. She is powerful, dynamic and flexible. Indeed, there doesn't seem to be much holding her back, but she does admit that some comp-style problems do pose considerable challenges for one who can’t arch their back properly.

“I can only bend in the one spot below my fusion,” says Kyra. “I think I’ve mostly found ways round it. I’ve gained a lot of other strengths to get around it, so I think that makes up for it.”

Along with numerous national competitions, Kyra won the infamous Psicobloc competition in Park City, Utah, in 2017, setting a new female record time of 44 seconds in the process and participating in the competition's first ever tiebreak against Alex Puccio. She won the Hueco Rock Rodeo bouldering competition the same year.>/p>

In terms of World Cups, Kyra has competed in the Vail Bouldering World Cup every year since 2013 and started to compete at international World Cups in 2016.

“I love the World Cup Series,” says Kyra. “It’s super cool to compare yourself to some of the best climbers in the world. And it’s not hugely cut-throat, everyone’s really nice”.

“I usually get less nervous at World Cups and more nervous at local competitions! We just had a competition at my home gym and it was the most nervous I’ve ever been!”

© Alexander Zoltai

When it comes to training Kyra is known for giving 100% every session and derives motivation from big goals. Embarking on the World Cup circuit in 2013 she set her sights set on making finals. In 2018 she achieved this twice, placing 5th in the World Cup in Vail and 6th in Tai’an, China.

“The next goal would be to make the world cup podium,” says Kyra, “and then, I guess, the Olympics”.

In January 2019 Kyra won the national Olympic-style combined competition in Salt Lake City, winning both boulder and lead categories and placing 3rd in speed. By winning she became the first female member of the 2019 US Climbing Team, allowing her to compete in Olympic qualifying competitions. In December 2019 all her hard work paid off when she qualified for an Olympic spot at the qualifying event in Toulouse. Youjj can read more about Kyra's Olympic Goals in an article she wrote for DMM.

In 2018, aged 22, Kyra completed her four-year Bachelor of Science pre-vet degree at the University of Minnesota after finely balancing her studies with competition climbing. She is currently taking a year or so out to focus on competitions and to give her all to qualifying for the Olympics, but fully intends to return to veterinary school.

“Since first grade I’d say I want to be a vet—like lots of kids, but I’m actually going to be one!” says Kyra, laughing. “We always had a lot of pets and I’ve been vegetarian since I was seven because I just love animals.”

When she’s not off competing on the world stage or training at the gym, Kyra finds time to climb outside and has climbed up to V12 (8A+). She also enjoys a good old-fashioned jigsaw puzzle (“I love the sections of just sky!”) and finding good coffee shops in new cities.

www.kyracondie.com

Jimmy was born in Maryville Tennessee (USA) on the 7th of November, 1987. He found climbing at age 17 through a close friend and began competing locally in his high school. When he was 19 he moved to the nearby climbing mecca of Chattanooga and started repeating the hardest lines and establishing a few of his own. In 2013 he made a memorable trip to Rocklands, South Africa where he flashed multiple 8B boulders. From here on he became known as “the greatest flash climber” in the sport of bouldering. These days developing is the main passion behind Jimmy and his climbing. He travels the world as much as possible in search for the next best thing. Currently he is living in California exploring the endless amounts of potential hidden in the Sierra Mountains.

Highlights

Poison the Well – 8C+ (V16)

Off the Wagon Sit – 8C+ (V16)

Ephyra – 8C+ (V16)

Roadkill – 8C (V15)

Lucid Dreaming – 8C (V15)

Virgo – 8C (V15) First ascent

Spray of Light – 8C (V15)

Parzival – 8C (V15)

The Finnish Line – 8C (V15)

Monkey wedding – 8C (V15)

Primitivo – 8C (V15) First ascent

Der mit dem Fels tanzt – 8C (V15)

From Dirt Grows The Flowers – 8C (V15)

Bad Girls Club – 9a/5.14d

Dreamcatcher – 9a/5.14d

14 – 8B (V13) Flashes

Sleepwalker – 8C+ (V16) First ascent

Living’ Large – 8C+ (V16) Second ascent

Creature from the Black Lagoon – 8C+ (V16)

The Outer Limits – 8C (V15) First ascent

Southern Drawl – 8C (V15) First ascent

The Matriarch – 8C (V15) First ascent

Delirium – 8C (V15) First ascent

Squoze – 8C (V15) First ascent

The Nest – 8C (V15) Second ascent

Kintsugi – 8C (V15 ) Second ascent

Dreamtime – 8C (V15)

The Big Island – 8C (V15)

La Pied à coulisse – 8C (V15) Second ascent

The Understanding – 8C (V15) Second ascent ( In an hour )

Defying Gravity – 8C (V15) Second ascent

The Game – 8C (V15)

The Story of Two Worlds – 8C (V15)

Yayali – 8B+ (V14) First ascent

Dreamcatcher – 5.14d (9a)

Groove Train – 5.14b/c (8c/+)

50 Words for Pump – 5.14b (8c)

Still Life – 5.14b (8c)

Chris was born in Santa Cruz, California (USA) in 1981. He started climbing at 12 years of age, won the National Bouldering Championship at 14, and just a year later made the first ascent of ‘Necessary Evil’ 5.14c (8c+) the first route of this grade in the USA and the hardest in the country at the time. In 2001 he made the first ascent of the Ceuse (France) project, Biographie, renaming it ‘Realization’ and thus establishing the world’s first 9a+ (5.15a). Since then Chris has never stopped pushing the limits in creating routes of outstanding character and difficulty — ‘Jumbo Love’ and ‘Golpe de Estado’, both 5.15b (9b) and ‘La Dura Dura’, 5.15c (9b+), being just a few of his most memorable achievements.

Highlights

La Dura Dura – 9b+ (5.15c) Second Ascent

El Bon Combat – 9b/+ (5.15b/c) First ascent

Jumbo Love – 9b (5.15b) First Ascent

Golpe de Estado 9b (5.15b) First ascent

Neanderthal – 9b (5.15b) First ascent

First Round First Minute – 9b (5.15b) First ascent

Fight or Flight – 9b (5.15b) First ascent

Stoking the Fire – 9b (5.15b) First ascent

Realization – 9a+ (5.15a) First ascent

Papichulo – 9a+ (5.15a) First ascent

Demencia Senil – 9a+ (5.15a) First ascent

Pachamama – 9a+ (5.15a) First ascent

Power Inverter – 9a+ (5.15a) First Ascent

Catxasa – 9a+ (5.15a) First Ascent

La Rambla – 9a+ (5.15a)

Dreamcatcher – 9a (5.14d) First Ascent

Era Vella – 9a (5.14d) First Ascent

Alasha – 9b (5.15b) Deep-water solo route. First ascent

Es Pontàs – 9a+ (5.15a) Deep-water solo route. First ascent

Practice of the Wild – V15 (8C) First Ascent

Witness the Fitness – V15 (8C) First ascent

Catalan Witness the Fitness – V15 (8C) First ascent